Method of forming seams



Dec, 12, 1939. L. G. BowMAN 2,182,911

METHOD 0F FORMING SEAMS A l Filed Oct. 19, 1936 3 Sheets-Sheet l Dec. 12, -1939. G. BOWMAN 2,182,911,`

METHOD 0F FORMING SEAMS Filed Oct. 19, 1936 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 l 1|' I ,7 21 l i G i #22 l 7727.10. 20; 5519 l l l Y' ,2l 3) l fr' i u 55.? 12 i P15712. E :L22 I l rl s f s 20H2 4D=1.12, 1939. L, G, BOWMAN 2,182,911

METHOD OF FORMING SEAMS Filedv 001'.. 19, 1936Y 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Bumm,

Patented Dec. 12, 1939 e 2,182,911

stares estesi Fries.

2,182,911 Mernon F Foei/11N@ seams Louis G. Bowman, St. Louis, Mo., assigner to Lewis Invisible Stitch Machine Company, St. Louis, Mo., a corporation of Maine .dpplication Qctober 19, 1936, Serial No.`106,l84

A 7 oiaims. (o1. 11a-262) .1

This invention relates to a method of forming mechanism including a vertically reciprocatory sewed ornamental seams. needle 6, the body fabrics proper being on the In the Grumo-n Patent 1,891,308, Dec. 2G, 1932, left hand side of the needle. Mounted on the a seam is formed by super-posing two body fabrics work support 5 is a throat plate 'i having the and then cutting pinke along the edge thereof and usual needle opening 8, and also the usual feed 5 simultaneously uniting the sections by a line of slots E in which a feed dog operates to feed stitches. the fabrics intermittently up to and past the The principal object of the present invention needle. The throat plate is provided with a guidis to provide a novel method oi forming such a slot Il] which extends rearwardly from the ,Y Y

lo seam and modiiicaticns thereof, wherein the pinkfront edge thereof to a point in front of the needle ing is accomplished prior to the searning operaopening il Where it terminates in a rearwardly intion. clined edge Si which extends to the right oi the With the above and other objects in view which needle opening. The work support 5 is provided will fully appear, the nature oi' the invenwith a -fabric guiding slot I3 which extends rearl5 tion will be clearly understood by follow/"lng Wardly from the front edge thereof and is in open 'l5 the description, the appended claims,` and the commimi'cation with the front end of thevslot lil. several views illustrated in the accompanying Disposed below the throat plate i on the right drawings. hand side of the `slot it, and supported by the in the drawings: work support 5, is a vertical ledger blade M hav- -go Figures l, 2 3 are views illustrating the steps ing an inverted V-shaped or triangular opening -20 employed in forming a l5 formed therein. A horizontal blade or knife Figure 4 is a plan View of the seam vformed by l5 is located below the throat plate l and mounted the method disclosed in Figures l., 2 and 3, for reciprocations across the slot lil and cooper- 'Figure 5 is a perspective View of the movable ates with the ledger blade M. The movable blade 2;; pinking knife, or knife l5 is oi inverted `V-shape in crc-ss secx25 Figures 6 to 9 are views illustrating the steps tion and has a sliding and cooperating iit with the employed in forming another opening l5 of the ledger blade. The superposed Figures 10 and ii are top and bottom plan body fabrics A and B are fed vto the needle t by views oi the iorined by the method disclosed the feed dog, and the edge portions a and b ci said in Figures 6 to fabrics are initially turned downwardly at right `m Figures l2 to are illustrating the steps angles thereto' and are positioned in ,parallel employed in i rming another seam, l planes in the slot i3 of the work support 5. As Figures 16 and 'i7 are top and bottoni plan the feed oi the fabrics progresses, the downturned views of the seam formed by the methoddisclosed edge portions a and b are passed along the slot in Figures l2 to 15, n It between the ledger blade I4 and the'movable .F35 yFigures 18 to are views illustrating the steps knife I6 which cooperate to cut a series of con- @mployed in forming another seam, i f nested pinks li in both edge portions simultane- Figi/1185,21 and are top and bottoni plan ously. Immediately following the pinking operviews or" the seam formed by the method disclosed ation, the pinned edge portions a and b are turned in Figures l to 20, into the general horizontal plane oi the body .do

Figures 23 to 26 are views illustrating the steps fabrics by the inclined guiding edge H of the employed in :forming another seam, and throat plate, the pinked edges being located on' v Figures and 28 are top bottom plan views the right hand Side 0f the needle s, The needle of the sears 'formed by the method disclosed in they; functions to unite the fabric sections A and Figures to 26. B by aline I3 of stitches which is located in spaced 1'45 Like reference numerals designate correspondparallel remi-,ion toV the pinked edge. ing throughout the several'sures of the In Figures 6 tc 11, I have disclosed another drawings. seam and method of forming the same. In these lll Figures l D 5, I b21-VS disclosed a Ile-W lilhld figures, two Superposed body fabrics C and D are 0f ffii-ming the Dlled @dee Seems shown in the disposed in a general horizontal plane on the s 5o patent to Gruinan referred to above. In these Work Support 5 with their edges arranged in fsUlGS, W10 Supfiped body 'fabrics A and B are overlapping relation. The edge portion d of the disposed'in general horizontal pla-ne upon the lower 'ia-bric is initially turned downwardly into Work support E of sewing machine S. The sewa plane at right angles thereto and is positioned lng machine is provided with a stitch 'forming in the slot i3 of the work support, whereas the T55 body fabric c extends on both sides of the needle l. As the feed of the fabrics progresses, the edge portion d is passed along the slot I between the ledger blade I4 and the movable knife IG which cooperate to cut a series of connected pinks I 9 in said edge portion d. Immediately following the pinking operation, the edge portion d is turned upwardly by the inclined guiding edge I I and into the general horizontal plane of the fabrics, the pinked edge portion d being located on the right hand side of the needle 6 and under the body fabric C. The needle 6 then functions to unite the body fabrics C and D by a line 20 of stitches which is located in spaced parallel relation to the pinked edge of the fabric D. One edge portion of the upper fabric C is then turned under as at 2| and a line 22 of stitches is then formed to unite the turned edge portion 2I to the body fabric D, the lines 20 and 22 of the stitches being disposed in spaced parallel relation.

In Figures 12 to 17, I have disclosed another seam and method of forming the same. In these figures, two body fabrics E and F are respectively positioned in a general horizontal plane on the work support on opposite sides of the needle 5. The edge portions e and of said body fabrics are initially turned downwardly into a plane at right angles thereto and are positioned in parallel planes in the slot I3 of the work support 5. As the feed of the fabric progresses, the downturned edge portions e and f are passed along the slot II) between the ledger blade I4 and the movable blade I6 which cooperate to cut a series of connected pinks 23 in said edge portions e and f. Immediately following the pinking operation the pinked edge portions e and f are turned upwardly by a guiding edge 24 on the throat plate 1 and into the general horizontal plane of the body fabrics, the edge portions e and f being positioned under the body fabric F. The needle 6 then functions to unite the body fabric F with both edge portions e and f by a line 25 of stitches which is located in spaced parallel relation to the pinked edges. l

In Figures 18 to 22, I have disclosed another seam and method of forming same. In these figures two superposed body fabrics G and H are disposed in a general horizontal plane on the work support 5 and on the right of the needle 6. The edge portions g and h of the body fabrics are initially turned downwardly into a plane at right angles thereto and are positionedin paralle] planes in the slot I3 of the work support 5. As the feed of the fabrics progresses, the downturned edge portions g and h are passed along the slot Il) between the ledger blade I4 and the movable knife I6 which cooperate to cut a series of connected pinks 26 in both edges simultaneously. Immediately following the pinking operation, the pinked edge portions g and h are turned into the general horizontal plane of the body fabrics by the edge guide 24 on the throat plate l, both edge portions being located directly under both body fabrics. The needle 6 then functions to unite both edge portions and both body fabrics by a line 21 of stitches which is located in spaced parallel relation to the pinked edges.

In Figures 23 to 28, I have disclosed another seam and method of forming the same. In these figures, two superposed fabrics I and J are dis posed in a general horizontal plane on the work support 5 with their edges arranged in overlapping relation, the upper fabric I extending on opposite sides of the needle and the lower fabric J being on the right hand side of the needle. The edge portion 9' of the lower body fabric is initially turned downwardly into a plane at right angles thereto and positioned in the slot I3 of the work support 5. As the feed of the fabric progresses, the downturned edge portion y' is passed along the slot IIJ between the ledger blade I4 and the movable knife I6 which cooperate to cut a series of connected pinks 28 in said edge portion i. Immediately following the pinking operation, the pinked edge portion :1' is turned by the guiding edge 24 on the throat plate 'l into the general horizontal plane of the body fabrics, said edge portion being disposed under the lower body fabric J. The needle 6 then functions to unite both body fabrics I and J and the pinked edge portion y' by a line 28 of stitches which is located in spaced parallel relation to the pinked edge. One edge portion of the upper fabric I is then turned under as at 30 and a line 3l of stitches is formed to unite the turned edge portion 30 to the lower fabric J, the lines 29 and 3l of the stitches being disposed in spaced par alle! relation.

It is of course to be understood that the details of structure and arrangement of parts may be variously changed and modified without departing from the spirit and scope of my inven tion.

I claim:

1. The method of forming a seam, consisting in positioning body fabric portions-to-be-joined on a common plane, turning adjacent edge portions of the body fabric portions into contacting relation in a plane at right angles to the body fabric portions, then pinking simultaneously both of said turned edge portions, and while maintaining the parallel relation of said edge portions nally uniting said pinked edge portions by a line of stitches located in spaced parallel relation to the line of pinks.

2. The method of forming a seam, consisting in rst turning adjacent edge portions of body fabrics into contacting relation in parallel planes at right angles to the body fabrics, then pinking simultaneously both of said turned edge portions, maintaining the contacting relation of the pinked edge portions and turning them into the general plane of said body fabrics, and finally uniting said pinked edge portions by a line of stitches located in spaced parallel relation to the line of pinks.

3. The method of forming a seam, consisting in first turning adjacent edge portions of body fabrics into contacting relation in parallel planes at right angles to the body fabrics, then pinking simultaneously both of said turned edge portions, maintaining the contacting relation of the pinked edge portions and turning both pinked edge portions against one body fabric, and finally uniting said turned edge portions and said one body fabric by a line of stitches located in spaced parallel relation to the line of pinks.

4. The herein described method of forming a pinked seam which consists in, first, bringing the body fabrics into superposed relation with their edge portions in approximate registry; second, turning the superposed edge portions of the body fabrics out of the general plane of the fabrics and maintaining the contacting relation of said edge portions; third, pinking the body fabric edge portions while turned; fourth, maintaining the contacting relation of the pinked edge portions and returning the pinked edge portions to the general plane of the body fabrics; and

finally uniting the body fabrics by a line of stitches paralleling the line of pinks.

5. The herein described method of forming a seam which consists in, first, disposing body fabrics side by side in a common plane With the adjacent edge portions thereof in contacting relation and turned into parallel planes at right angles thereto; second, pinking the turned edge portions; third, maintaining the contacting relation of the pinked edge portions and returning the pinked edge portions to the general plane of the fabrics; and finally uniting the fabrics by a line of stitches paralleling the line of pinks while retaining the body fabrics in the same general plane.

6. The herein described method of forming a seam which consists in, first, disposing body fabrics side by side in a common plane With the adjacent edge portions thereof in contacting relation and turned into parallel planes at right angles thereto; second, pinking the turned edge portions; third, maintaining the contacting relation of the pinked edge portions and returning 'the pinked edge portions to the general plane of the fabrics by turning said edge portions against one of the body fabrics thereby positioning one body fabric proper and its pinked edgeportion in a common plane and forming an edge fold in the other body fabric; and finally uniting the body fabrics by a line of stitches passing through the edge fold and the underlying body fabric edge portion and paralleling the line of pinks.

'7. The herein described method of forming a pinked seam which consists in, first, bringing the body fabrics into superposed relation with their edge portions in approximate registry; second, turning the superposed edge portions out of the general plane of the body fabrics; third, pinking said edge portions While turned; fourth, maintaining the contacting relation of the pinked edge portions and returning the pinked edge portions to the general plane of and against and in superposed relation to the body fabrics forming a double edge fold; and finally uniting the body fabrics and the edge portions by a line of stitches passing through the edge fold.

LOUIS G. BOWMAN. 

